Well... it was bound to happen sooner or later. I've been bragging about how I never get sick. In the past two years, I've been to Peru, Bolivia, China, Jordan, Turkey, Egypt, Doha, and Israel and had zero stomach problems. Street food... no problems. Dirty dishes... no problems. Tap water in Jordan... no problems. Three weeks in India... no problems. Then... disaster hit. On the morning Steph was supposed to depart for China and I was supposed to head to the meditation stay, we both woke up with a massive case of travel sickness. Not your run of the mill runs... I'm talking fever, chills, stomach cramps, diarrhea, vomit... the works. The kind of sick when you are stuck in the bathroom and your only worry is which end the sickness is gonna come out of next... up top or down bottom... and you spend the entire day alternating between sitting on the porcelaine throne and praying on your knees to the porcelaine god. The best part was that both of us were sick and had to take turns in the bathroom. When I wasn't in the bathroom I was in the hotel room, curled into the fetal positioning, sweating, shivering, and wimpering (yes, literally wimpering) from the stomach cramps. Can't remember the last time I've had stomach cramps that bad. When I was in the bathroom, I could hear Steph waiting at the door desparately trying to hold it all in.
Damn you India...YOU WIN... I was cocky and thought my stomach was invincible, but you proved me wrong. You defeated me and left me crying like a little girl. Next time I go to India, I'm only going to eat street food... I figure if I'm gonna get sick, I might as well go out in a blaze of glory. Maybe next time I'll end up getting Giardia or some other glorious travel ailment.
So my trip has changed once again. I didn't get to do the 2 weeks in silence that I planned, because I wasn't able to leave my bathroom to get on the train. Perhaps it was a good thing. I was already having second thoughts about staying at the ashram during the summer. When the coordinator emails you to specifically remind you that the temperature is 110 during the day and 90 at night, it kinda makes one have doubts about "finding yourself" while you are battling dehydration and various other heat related ailments. So, of the three top things that I wanted to do on this trip - dive the Red Sea, meditate at an ashram, and see Tibet - only one came through.... but not for a lack of effort or good intentions. I guess I'll just have to save the spiritual stuff for another trip when Olympic protests blocking the way to Tibet and my stomach isn't exploding.
Obviously, there are no pictures for this part of the trip, but if are curious I can give you a very detailed description of what everything looked like and you can create your own in mental images.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Friday, June 13, 2008
India Travel - Text
(sorry for the lame pix on the other post... having a hard time finding USB ports around here... and the computers are annoyingly slow!!! I had better photos, but no time to search for them).
I hate to get too cliche, but the best way to describe India is "different". Its completely different from anywhere else I've ever been... including China. It can be the most vibrant and energetic place on earth... with people and action humming on every street corner for hundreds of miles. That activity, however, makes it the most chaotic place on earth as well. I guess one way to put it is that its both travel heaven and travel hell. Just some examples of what I mean...
TRANSPORTATION
Heaven: For the bargain price of $15/day, Steph, Ariele, and I were able to afford a car and driver to take us throughout Rajasthan... that is less than the cost of taking the trains, rickshaws, etc around. Our driver took us everywhere for the first 10 days, waited for us while we visited the different monuments, and gave us itinerary suggestions. It was a little bit (just a little) of luxury during our otherwise difficult trip.
Hell: After we ditched the driver for the more local experience, we had the joy of taking the train. Our first overnight train was 5 hours late, and we spent the 5 hours waiting in the train station... in the the 100+ degree heat and humidity, which created a general layer of funk over everyone. We passed the time swatting away flies, mosquitos, and crickets and watching the rats run around the tracks. I was truly amazed at the sheer quantity of rats running around the tracks... but not surprised after seeing everyone throw their trash onto the tracks and realizing that the train toilets empty out on the tracks. There were people all over the train station... a sea of humanity, flesh, and sweat. Most people brought blankets to lay down on, and the three of us shared the two seats that we could find. After 5 hours, I wasn't sure what smelled worse... the funk from all the bodies or the stink of fresh urine on the tracks. After fighting the funk, we finally got on to our sleeper train, which luckily was air conditioned!!! Unfortunately... the Japanese guy that was sharing our berth was also waiting in the heat for 5 hours... and his foot funk clogged up our compartment and I had to sleep with the curtain open for fresh air.
Conclusion: I don't think that I could travel by train for 6 months straight, but it is an experience. The sights and smells are unreal... I can't begin to describe the chaos we saw during some of the other train trips we've taken... monsoons pouring down on hundreds of people with bags and sacks strapped to their heads and necks, naked kids running around, dogs and cows everywhere, food carts running for cover, and kids and men urinating everywhere. I'm not saying that all of India is like this... the train station is definitely its own little world... and I'm glad to get a taste of it.
PEOPLE
Heaven: Everything about the people here is bold and vibrant. I am constantly amazed to see how bright the saris are. Even the poorest women in the villages have bright pink, yellow, and blue saris. We can't quite figure out how they keep the colors so bright... especially the women that wash in the river. The ganges is a nasty, funky mess with cremated bodies, water buffalos, and bathers floating everywhere... I can't understand how the women wash their clothes in there and still walk away with bright, almost fluorescent, colored outfits. That's some definite skill. My blue tshirt turns brown from the dust and sweat after being out all day... and their bright colored outfits never seem to change. The men and children are all so friendly. You can't walk down the street without someone coming up to talk to you... and the little boys are the best... they always want their picture taken and are so eager to meet the tourists. With the amount of tourists that India gets, I would think they would be tired of seeing us, but they never seem to lose interest.
Hell: That same outgoing nature leads to some of the worst touts on earth. You can't walk down the street without someone talking to you... but unfortunately that someone is usually trying to sell you something. Also the amount of people is just overwhelming... Its just people everwhere... the bazaars are absolutely packed and the streets are ALWAYS crowded. India seems like New York City Times Square on New Years Eve... but everyday and in every city.
Conclusion: I like it. The crowds and touts are frustrating and I find myself getting really feisty (Yesterday I screamed at a driver over 10 rupees, which is the equivalent of 25 cents), BUT I think that's part of the experience. It just created this energy and excitement that is different from anything else I've ever experienced.
FOOD
Heaven: India is amazing when it comes to food. This is the first place that I've visited that I really feel like I'm able to get a taste of the local food... without the locals! Even more amazing is that after two weeks, I'm still finding new dishes every meal. The variey here is incredibly... its definitely foodie heaven.
Hell: We took two cooking classes - One with a woman during a home stay (very very cool experience) and the other at a small school in Udaipur. The first thing we discovered was that our stomachs were not hurting from the "new" bacteria... but from the oil. When the recipe starts with 4 CUPS (not tablespoons) of oil, you know its gonna be pepto time baby. The Lonely Planet always has a section on travelers diarrhea... but I think they should include a section for oil diarrhea... gross but true. Side note: Daily 100 degree heat mixed with hot, heavy, spicy Indian food is the ultimate recipe for food coma.
Conclusion: I loved Indian food before I came... and I love it even more now. I can't wait to get home to try out some of the stuff I learned in cooking class. I'm still not sure how people are able to eat this style food everyday, but its tasty as hell... its probably the 4 cups of oil they use.
HOTELS
Heaven: During our first two weeks we made an effort to stay at some havelis... which are historical homes/buildings. Our most unique stay was at a private home with a woman named Bhavana. We hung out with her and her son and learned to cook... and she had the most beautiful guest rooms ever. My favorite spot was at Udaipur... where we stayed a historical haveli turned guesthouse with a beautiful view of the lake. I'll write more about that later, so I don't want to spoil it now, but we unamimously agree that was our best stop. The price for these stays... about $12.50/night/person.
Hell: We also stayed at a haveli for $2.50 per person... which probably wasn't worth the $2.50 we payed. We stayed at several places where we had to use our mosquito nets... and not just to keep mosquitos out. We've grown accustomed to picking up crickets and escorting them out, showering in stank prison-esque showers, and hoping that we can't see won't hurt us.
Conclusion: I could really do without the $2.50/night guesthouses. Its part of the adventure now... but not a positive memory.
ANIMALS
Heaven: India is just teeming with animals. I know I've mentioned this already, but it just blows my mind how many cows are out on the streets. Its crazy to be stuck in traffice behind a cow who is moo-ing at a rickshaw to "hurry up already with that left turn". Monkies can easily be spotted near any market (where they usually steal food), wild pigs near the trash pile, dogs anywhere you look, and goats are almost anywhere you see cows.
Hell: I've also said this before, but its worth mentioning again... animals make waste. Lots of animals make lots of waste. Not picking it up makes a huge mess... enough said.
Conclusion: Animals are cool, but the city governments should assign more people to picking up that crap.
I hate to get too cliche, but the best way to describe India is "different". Its completely different from anywhere else I've ever been... including China. It can be the most vibrant and energetic place on earth... with people and action humming on every street corner for hundreds of miles. That activity, however, makes it the most chaotic place on earth as well. I guess one way to put it is that its both travel heaven and travel hell. Just some examples of what I mean...
TRANSPORTATION
Heaven: For the bargain price of $15/day, Steph, Ariele, and I were able to afford a car and driver to take us throughout Rajasthan... that is less than the cost of taking the trains, rickshaws, etc around. Our driver took us everywhere for the first 10 days, waited for us while we visited the different monuments, and gave us itinerary suggestions. It was a little bit (just a little) of luxury during our otherwise difficult trip.
Hell: After we ditched the driver for the more local experience, we had the joy of taking the train. Our first overnight train was 5 hours late, and we spent the 5 hours waiting in the train station... in the the 100+ degree heat and humidity, which created a general layer of funk over everyone. We passed the time swatting away flies, mosquitos, and crickets and watching the rats run around the tracks. I was truly amazed at the sheer quantity of rats running around the tracks... but not surprised after seeing everyone throw their trash onto the tracks and realizing that the train toilets empty out on the tracks. There were people all over the train station... a sea of humanity, flesh, and sweat. Most people brought blankets to lay down on, and the three of us shared the two seats that we could find. After 5 hours, I wasn't sure what smelled worse... the funk from all the bodies or the stink of fresh urine on the tracks. After fighting the funk, we finally got on to our sleeper train, which luckily was air conditioned!!! Unfortunately... the Japanese guy that was sharing our berth was also waiting in the heat for 5 hours... and his foot funk clogged up our compartment and I had to sleep with the curtain open for fresh air.
Conclusion: I don't think that I could travel by train for 6 months straight, but it is an experience. The sights and smells are unreal... I can't begin to describe the chaos we saw during some of the other train trips we've taken... monsoons pouring down on hundreds of people with bags and sacks strapped to their heads and necks, naked kids running around, dogs and cows everywhere, food carts running for cover, and kids and men urinating everywhere. I'm not saying that all of India is like this... the train station is definitely its own little world... and I'm glad to get a taste of it.
PEOPLE
Heaven: Everything about the people here is bold and vibrant. I am constantly amazed to see how bright the saris are. Even the poorest women in the villages have bright pink, yellow, and blue saris. We can't quite figure out how they keep the colors so bright... especially the women that wash in the river. The ganges is a nasty, funky mess with cremated bodies, water buffalos, and bathers floating everywhere... I can't understand how the women wash their clothes in there and still walk away with bright, almost fluorescent, colored outfits. That's some definite skill. My blue tshirt turns brown from the dust and sweat after being out all day... and their bright colored outfits never seem to change. The men and children are all so friendly. You can't walk down the street without someone coming up to talk to you... and the little boys are the best... they always want their picture taken and are so eager to meet the tourists. With the amount of tourists that India gets, I would think they would be tired of seeing us, but they never seem to lose interest.
Hell: That same outgoing nature leads to some of the worst touts on earth. You can't walk down the street without someone talking to you... but unfortunately that someone is usually trying to sell you something. Also the amount of people is just overwhelming... Its just people everwhere... the bazaars are absolutely packed and the streets are ALWAYS crowded. India seems like New York City Times Square on New Years Eve... but everyday and in every city.
Conclusion: I like it. The crowds and touts are frustrating and I find myself getting really feisty (Yesterday I screamed at a driver over 10 rupees, which is the equivalent of 25 cents), BUT I think that's part of the experience. It just created this energy and excitement that is different from anything else I've ever experienced.
FOOD
Heaven: India is amazing when it comes to food. This is the first place that I've visited that I really feel like I'm able to get a taste of the local food... without the locals! Even more amazing is that after two weeks, I'm still finding new dishes every meal. The variey here is incredibly... its definitely foodie heaven.
Hell: We took two cooking classes - One with a woman during a home stay (very very cool experience) and the other at a small school in Udaipur. The first thing we discovered was that our stomachs were not hurting from the "new" bacteria... but from the oil. When the recipe starts with 4 CUPS (not tablespoons) of oil, you know its gonna be pepto time baby. The Lonely Planet always has a section on travelers diarrhea... but I think they should include a section for oil diarrhea... gross but true. Side note: Daily 100 degree heat mixed with hot, heavy, spicy Indian food is the ultimate recipe for food coma.
Conclusion: I loved Indian food before I came... and I love it even more now. I can't wait to get home to try out some of the stuff I learned in cooking class. I'm still not sure how people are able to eat this style food everyday, but its tasty as hell... its probably the 4 cups of oil they use.
HOTELS
Heaven: During our first two weeks we made an effort to stay at some havelis... which are historical homes/buildings. Our most unique stay was at a private home with a woman named Bhavana. We hung out with her and her son and learned to cook... and she had the most beautiful guest rooms ever. My favorite spot was at Udaipur... where we stayed a historical haveli turned guesthouse with a beautiful view of the lake. I'll write more about that later, so I don't want to spoil it now, but we unamimously agree that was our best stop. The price for these stays... about $12.50/night/person.
Hell: We also stayed at a haveli for $2.50 per person... which probably wasn't worth the $2.50 we payed. We stayed at several places where we had to use our mosquito nets... and not just to keep mosquitos out. We've grown accustomed to picking up crickets and escorting them out, showering in stank prison-esque showers, and hoping that we can't see won't hurt us.
Conclusion: I could really do without the $2.50/night guesthouses. Its part of the adventure now... but not a positive memory.
ANIMALS
Heaven: India is just teeming with animals. I know I've mentioned this already, but it just blows my mind how many cows are out on the streets. Its crazy to be stuck in traffice behind a cow who is moo-ing at a rickshaw to "hurry up already with that left turn". Monkies can easily be spotted near any market (where they usually steal food), wild pigs near the trash pile, dogs anywhere you look, and goats are almost anywhere you see cows.
Hell: I've also said this before, but its worth mentioning again... animals make waste. Lots of animals make lots of waste. Not picking it up makes a huge mess... enough said.
Conclusion: Animals are cool, but the city governments should assign more people to picking up that crap.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Indian Adventures
Just finished my first week in India and finally found time to sit down and write. BTW... I just skipped over Turkey and doha, and I'll just have to come back to those two trips sometime later! As for India its been a busy trip so far... Steph and Ariele joined me on the road and its been good to finally get some company! Our plan was to see Rajasthan, Delhi, and Agra... but now we also found time in our itinerary to squeeze in a trip to Bhodgaya (spelling?) and Varanasi.
The trip has been good so far. We were able to hire a driver and car for 2 weeks to take us all around Rajasthan and Agra! The car, driver, and gas are actually cheaper than the buying train tickets for the three of us! Crazy, huh? Who woulda thought that a car and driver would be cheaper than a train... especially with gas prices as high as they are! Well, I was definitely surprised by this, but jumped at the opportunity which has turned out to be money well spent. Our driver also doubles as a guide, telling us which monuments are good and which ones are not... hotel choices, however, usually depend on where he can get a good commission and don't always exude a feeling of quality, comfort, or service, so we've learned to stick to the lonely planet for hotels and our driver for other tourist advice. Traveling with a driver has also proved handy because getting around can be a total mess. I knew that Delhi was a bit chaotic, but I was surprised to find that the other cities were not much better... on any given city street one has to be able to navigate through cars, trucks, bikes, rickshaws, cows, donkeys, goats, people, cow droppings, goat droppings, pigs, dogs, dog droppings, and worst of all... the evil touts. Indian touts have definitely been the worst on my trip... not as aggressive or rude as Egyptian touts but much more persistent and annoying. Its difficult to just walk down the street without being followed by a rickshaw driver or a store owner... I actually had one driver follow me for at least 20 minutes on my first afternoon. Walking around forever with all the obstacles... the only word that I can use to describe it is... gauntlet. With all the chaos, I'm definitely happy that we have a driver and I can just sit in the car and sleep while he has to battle the traffic, people, and farm animals that crowd the city streets.
Minus the traffic and crowds... India has been a great trip so far. We spent most of our time visiting palaces, forts, and temples, my favorite of which were the fort in Jodhpur and the Jain temple in Ranakpur. The Meharanger (that is definitely spelled wrong) fort in Jodhpur was the most impressive site yet... its absolutely huge and sits high up on the high top overlooking the nearby city. Best of all, it is owned by the Maharaja of Jodhpur so its better kept and maintained than the other forts which are mostly owned by the government. It also overlooks Jodhpur, which is the "Blue City" as you can see by the pictures. In any case the pictures of the fort and the city are at the top (2 of them together). The picture of the Jain temple is the last picture of the 4... the temple was absolutely breathtaking. Every pillar, ceiling tile, and square inch of wall space was covered with detailed and intricate carvings.
Aside from sightseeing, we've also had the time to partake in some great food. Almost every meal has been different from the rest, which is amazing after 10 days. I was a bit disappointed with the food in Delhi (probably cuz I was stuck in a bunch of tourist traps) but have been very happy since we left... I've sampled 6-7 different types of bread (naan, chapati, parantha, roti, puri... etc), countless types of rice (byranis, pilaus, etc), and endless curries... most of which have been tasty, but a bit on the heavy side. Its especially heavy when you are sitting in 105-110 degree heat... which has happened to us quite a few days. The heat really kills your appetite. I knew that summer was the off-season for tourism and now I'm seeing why. There have been 2-3 days where I ran from shady spot to shady spot on the streets trying to avoid the intense heat of the sun. Its difficult visiting palaces and forts when you are constantly trying to stand in a shady spot while listening to your audio guide and taking pictures. Sadly enough the heat will be one my most enduring memories of India... I'm sure of that and its only my second week here!
Well... I guess anyone who is reading this is probably wondering what the hell is going on with the rats in the first picture... I saved this story for the end so you would have to read the rest of my blabber before getting the good one. We went to a temple in the city of Deshnook where the rats are considered holy. They are a reincarnation of a god (i forget which one) and they have free run of the entire temple. The locals feed them and keep them happy (they are drinking from a bowl of milk in the picture) and there are just hundreds, if not thousands, of nasty, filthy, diseased rats just running around the temple. The best part is that you have to take your shoes off to go inside the temple and so you are walking around rats with your bare feet. It was a strangely disgusting yet quirky and fun experience.... memorable to say the least. I'm surprised there are more tourists that come here or that the temple isn't more famous than it is... I've never heard of it, but would recommend it to anyone in Rajasthan who wants to see something "different".
In closing... big shout out to my boy Kobe Bryant... love my Lakers and I can't believe I'm not at home to watch them destroy the Celtics.
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